Scenic Drives: The Beartooth Highway

On the Road correspondent Charles Kuralt called the Beartooth Highway "The most beautiful roadway in America." Beautiful indeed. Climbing to 10,947 feet above sea level, the highway spans lush, lodge pole pine forests, a high alpine tundra with lush wildflower meadows, glacial impressions, clear mountain lakes, and snow that lingers into the summer months.

 

In fact, the nation's only summer ski area, Beartooth Basin, has some of the best headwall and cornice skiing around and is served by two high-speed platform lifts. (Advanced/intermediate or expert skills required.)  

 

The Absaroka-Beartooth Mountain range is spectacular to view along the drive, but it's a playground like no other for those who like to get deep into the woods. There are 950 alpine lakes, many suitable for canoeing or paddle boarding. Hikers and backpackers can explore hundreds of miles of trails, and climbers can choose from twenty peaks over 12,000 feet in elevation, including Granite Peak, Montana's highest, coming in at 12,799.

 

Beartooth Highway, Montana

 

Getting to Red Lodge and the Beartooth Highway

 

From Bozeman, it's a little over two hours to get to Red Lodge, where the highway begins. You can overnight there, with plenty of restaurants and a great little candy store. Or, head over the pass and stay the night in Cooke City.

 

The drive from Red Lodge to Cooke City is 68.72 miles but plan on at least three hours of drive time, not including stops. The road has many switchbacks and lookouts you'll want to take advantage of as you gain ten miles in elevation! Watch for wildlife such as grizzly and black bears, elk, deer, moose, bighorn sheep, Rocky Mountain goats, mountain lions, and bobcats.

 

Cooke City and Silver Gate

 

The communities of Cooke City and Silver Gate are like no other. Small mountain towns tucked up between towering peaks, with endless trails to explore in both summer and winter. Tours of Yellowstone and the Beartooth Mountains are available, as well as fabulous dining, gas, groceries, and lodging. This is the town to spend some time in if you want to unplug, unwind, and relax in the natural world.

 

Beartooth Highway, Montana

 

From Cooke City, you'll want to exit through the Lamar Valley in Yellowstone National Park. This section of the Park is excellent for wildlife watching and is home to the majority of the wolf packs in Yellowstone. (Go early morning or late evening for your best chance of seeing them.)

 

Explore Yellowstone National Park

 

Stop in Mammoth Hot Springs and enjoy the terraces and the resident elk. (Don't get too close; they may look docile but are wild animals.) Explore the Albright Visitor Center and learn more about the history and wildlife of Yellowstone. Or tour Historic Fort Yellowstone, where U.S. Army Soldiers lived. These soldiers were brought in in 1886 to arrest poachers, educate visitors, provide medical care, manage wildlife, fight fires, and expel squatters.

 

End your day with a soak in Yellowstone Hot Springs, just outside Gardiner, Montana. You'll find relaxing pools full of hot mineral water, a refreshing cold plunge, and views like no other.

 

End your day with dinner in Livingston, Montana. Chefs flock to this little town for the quality of life, and the dining scene reflects their talent. Restaurants with locally sourced, creatively prepared dishes are on every corner, along with several diverse ethnic restaurants, and long-standing taverns filled with locals.

 

The Beartooth Highway is generally open from Memorial Day to mid-October, weather-dependent, so always check the Montana Dept. of Transportation website before heading out.

 

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